We just got back from a 13 day (11 days + 2 for travel) vacation in Peru. What a neat experience, and with kids, I'm glad we got to enjoy it at a slower pace. We rented an apartment ($90/day) that was in Cusco, but at the farther end of the main square, Plaza de Armas. This worked out well, as we were away from all the noise, but still within walking distance to the main attractions.
With 11 days, we spent a considerable amount of time just in the city, including San Blas. Especially Calista and me, since we stayed back while James/Zach went on their 4-day Inca Trail hike. We went on a city tour (half day) to visit a few sites right outside the Cusco and the Sacred Valley tour (full day) ... as well as a private tour of Moray/Moras. Here are the pictures (and commentary )!
Our apartment, a park, and "Festival of the Sun":

Our apartment (4th floor), our view from the family room, and right outside the complex.
We lived right across a children's park (Urpicha), which was a highlight for the kids. Entrance was only half a sole (~15 cents) and on weekends, we could buy ride tickets for 1 sole. It's amazing how fun parks can be without fear of lawsuits! Huge slides, see-saws, and broken down carnival rides, which can now be hand operated. Lots of litter and rust and sharp metal edges everywhere, but we went 3x times during our trip and survived unscathed.



We arrived on the weekend of Cuzco's most important celebration "Festival of the Sun". This was completely luck on our part. While I definitely do touristy sites when I travel, it was nice to stay a bit longer this trip and spend time amongst the "locals." You definitely get a better feel for the city vs shuffling from one museum or ruin to the next!



In Cusco:
We hit the major Cusco city sites on our first full day: Plaza de Armas, La Catedral (headset tour for adults only), Museo Inka, self tour at Qorikancha (once covered in gold and the richest temple in the Incan empire!), and Monument to Pachakuteq (a 75ft bronze effigy.) Qorikancha was about mid way between our apartment and the main Plaza - we would often stop by Mega (grocery store) to pick up a snack and sit on the benches outside Qorikancha for some people watching. Well, and to catch our breath! The higher altitude does make a difference, even though we exercise regularly and I consider ourselves relatively fit.


While James and Zach were doing their hike, Calista and I visited smaller attractions that were included in our Cusco Tourist Ticket (Boleto Turistico). With the Sun festival over, the streets and plazas were much less crowded. We went to the Museum of Contemporary Art (20th-21st century pieces), Museum of Regional History, The Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco and, Museum of Popular Art. None are must-dos (I don't think I would have even paid for them if they were separate tickets), but kept us entertained during the day. We also enjoyed walking around the handicraft markets, although we didn't buy much: a pen with doll topper (~60 cents) and alpaca gloves (~$4).


Concerned about the winding roads to Machu Picchu, one day, I decided to look a "Dramamine" equivalent. I found a pharmacy and using hand gestures and very limited Spanish, and purchased a pack of motion sickness pills. The directions were half a pill for Calista since she was only 4-years-old, maximum of 3x a day. I only knew the word 'half' from a recent cheese buying experience with James (who knows more Spanish). I used my iPhone later that night to verify what I purchased and the dosage - I was very impressed with myself since I was correct. All those childhood potluck parties, playing charades has paid off! 
We all went to the small town of San Blas, where we took the obligatory touristy photo in front of St. Blas church. Then we walked around the handicraft market in the center of San Blas, where I purchased as pair of silver earrings for 40 soles (~$15) from a man making them in his small stand. I know you're supposed to bargain, but seeing how hard these artisans work and how few people were actually buying, I just couldn't do it. I'm such a sucker tourist!

We also visited the local Chocolate Museum, and went to the Qosqo Center of Native Art for a show of traditional dancing and music.

Sacred Valley:
We went on a full day Sacred Valley tour from 8:30am until past 7:30pm! Started with two stops at outlooks to break up the long drive. James and Zachary purchased knit hats at one of the stops.

Then we visited an alpaca and llama center in Awanacancha to feed the animals. Kids were both scared but later Calista said it was the best part of the tour and wanted to go back.

Next stop was Pisaq market, one of the biggest artisan markets in South America ... Especially Sunday, where neighboring villages set up a barter market, an informal economy (again, pure luck that we visited that day) That said, not sure why we didn't see the Pisaq ruins as part of the tour?!
Zachary and I separated from James/Calista and got lost amongst the rows of stands (which all started looking very similar) We barely made it to the tour bus on time - Talk about panic! But we made it ... and just in time for a buffet lunch at Tunupa in Urubamba, overlooking the river. Concerned about getting sick (weak American stomachs and all) I skipped the sushi and ceviche ... but couldn't resist a few small slices of Alpaca carpaccio. Next up ... Ollantaytambo, a military/religious/farming complex. The climb left me out of breath (pathetic, no?) but we all made it, including Calista. She was super proud of herself!


Final stop was Chincero, where we saw Incan structures and farming terraces framing a Colonial church. Chincero was really cold, and we saw piles of potato on the ground (to freeze/dehydrate in order to preserve them longer). We also attended a weaving demonstration (shorn Alpaca wool -> yarn -> dyed yarn ->vibrant textiles), and bought a small souvenir doll for Calista. It's probably made in China, but we wanted to support the weavers in a small way.

Moray/Moras:
We went on a private tour to Moray and Maras (9:30am-2pm) After a short photo-op outlook stop, we reached Salinas, a centuries old salt mine near Maras, which is still in operation today. It was amazing! We could see/touch the source of the warm salt water. The magnitude of the mine was incredible. I would have to say this was my favorite place to visit.


Our second stop was Moray, an archaeological site consisting of 3 sets of concentric, circular terraces with unknown purpose. It is suspected to be an Incan agricultural laboratory, possibly used to study the effects of different climatic conditions on crops. It looked like something out of the show 'Lost'.


The downside of the trip was that the roads were very winding, and a private van was more sensitive to the bumpy road than a larger tour bus. Both there and back, Calista felt motion sick. On the way home (1.5 hour drive) she got sick, and we were fortunate to have a plastic bag handy. I wish I had remembered to bring Dramamine - seems like an obvious thing to pack when touring around mountains. Fortunately, aside from lack of appetite, she bounced right back as soon as we got out of the car.
Inca Trail and Machu Picchu:
Zachary and James went the 4-day Inca Trail hike to Machu Picchu. Day 1 was slow, as the tour guide seemed to be gauging everyone's abilities. Day 2 was James and Zach's favorite - it was the most challenging, and longest hiking day. Being in/above the clouds was pretty amazing and it felt very secluded (just their group). Day 3 was a half day, as you want to reach the Sun Gate at dawn the following day. James said that it was very possible to finish the 4-day Inca Trail in 2. This is due to ~15 years of corporate indoctrination of "results orientation", which fights against experiencing the hike at a leisurely pace. When Zach described the hike to my sister after we got back, she asked, "Was it a race? How come after every day, you know who came in which place?" 
More stats on the hike: http://www.llamapath.com/inkatrail4dg.jpg







Arrived at the Sun Gate and watched the sunrise! They did it!!!


Meanwhile in Cusco, Calista and I got up at 5am for our multi-step journey to meet James and Zach. Short taxi ride -> bus (1 hr 45 min) ->Vistadome train (~3 hrs) -> another bus (~30min). It was freezing when we started and hot by when we got to Machu Picchu. Definitely wear layers! We saw James and Zachary right at the entrance. Yay - family reunited! This is definitely a case of pictures saying a thousand words.



We spent the day exploring the site. Calie had a stomachache part way through our self tour, so James carried her. I think we do push our kids a bit on our vacations, but there is so much in this world that we want to see! After a day of hiking around, we headed back to Aguas Calientes for a lunch break before catching the Vistadome train back home. The Vistadome was the mid-price option, and perfectly fine for us. The lower end expedition would have saved us a minimal amount, and taking the luxury Hiram Bingham would have run us an extra ~$600pp. I don't see how it would be worth it, as the most important part is the view, which is the same for all trips. Maybe a slightly smoother or faster ride, better snacks, and an opportunity to mingle with wealthy people?

City Tour:
On our last full day in Peru, we took a half day tour covering Saqsaywaman, Q'enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay. It actually also includes Qorikancha and La Catedral, but since we've already been to those sites, we joined in the middle of the tour. I initially though we were done with ruins; after visiting Machu Picchu, could there be anything interesting and different? Saqsaywaman (which I keep wanting to pronounce "sexy woman") did not disappoint. The size of the stones here were HUGE ... the largest being almost 30ft and 130 tons. Only the biggest ones remained, as the stones were pillaged by the Spaniards after sieging Cusco. Supposedly the current site is only 20% of the original. Sad.


Next stops were Q'enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay. Resting places, military fortresses, or religious/ceremonial sites for Incans on the way from Cusco to Machu Picchu. In other words, I don't remember. These were smaller sites, and less impressive than Saqsaywaman, although still interesting (and there's something about kids and running around amongst ruins, exploring ... seems to never get old!)



Food: What blog of mine would be complete without a section on food, right?
I was frustrated with the food almost the entire time, as everything seemed so starchy and flavorless. Take-out places didn't look too clean (I ordered a chicken across the street from our apartment and the cashier grabbed it from the rotisserie using a rag from the floor) so we thought it was safer to make our own food. Peruvian corn ... thumbs down. The dairy and meat didn't seem refrigerated enough for our standards, so we limited the amount we ate. Breads, pasta, chips, cereal, pastries, eggs, fruit, rubbery cheese (won't melt properly). It was like a %^& continental breakfast all day long. For over a week!

I do admit we played it super safe with food before Machu Picchu, as we didn't want to get sick and miss it. Therefore, as soon as it was behind us, it was time to try ceviches and cuy (guinea pig ... a rodent). We were still pretty conservative and picked high TripAdvisor-rated, touristy places. Inka Grill right off Plaza de Armas was awesome - it changed my mind about Peruvian food, which I had written off as bland. The trout tiradito with aji appetizer was so good, I ordered a second serving. Cuy tasted a lot like roast duck, but with the ROI of eating crabs. As one might expect, not much meat ... Especially for me, as I could hardly pick out meat as fast as Calista could eat them.

With success at Inka Grill under our belts, we tried Greens and Incanto, other restaurants in the same chain. The alpaca wrap at Greens was awesome (James' favorite), and while I found their salad dressing a bit too sour, I was grateful for any raw vegetables washed in purified water. Their freshly made juice is highly recommended too! Incanto was my least favorite in that family of restaurants, as I found their food (Peruvian/Italian fusion) bland ... not surprisingly, it was Zach's favorite. In some ways, I wish we took more risks and tried additional restaurants (especially earlier in our trip) ... but on the other hand, I should just be grateful we all stayed relatively healthy, and we had 3 days of good food!

Summary: This trip is definitely for a more seasoned traveler, especially if taking along young children. A lot more unknowns, and possibilities of things going wrong. We were very fortunate that none of us had acute altitude sickness - I think I may have been the worst off, as I started the first few days waking up with a headache. Calie had some tummy issues throughout the trip too (not entirely sure it was altitude related). For me though, the effort is more than worth the reward. The only thing I enjoy more than traveling to new places is sharing them with my children. Don't get me wrong ... I love resorts, Hawaii, and all things Disney (in case that wasn't obvious from our other travels!) but I enjoy mixing it up with more adventurous trips to places like Costa Rica, Peru, Spain (yes, that's a hint) ... Hmm ... I really should have taken Spanish instead of French in high school!
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